Shielding (copper, etc.)

[KingOfAmps]

who should I deal with to acquire the copper grounding tape for my P-bass?

need to do 1 maybe 2 basses for now.

thanks.

[NoXX]

I've used these guys for several bass shielding missions, with great success:

http://www.guitarelectronics.com/produc ... g-Kit.html

[KingOfAmps]

I've used these guys for several bass shielding missions, with great success

Thanks! Exactly what I am looking for.

Have no idea why I previously titled this thread "grounding" instead of shielding.

[NoXX]

No worries

[KingOfAmps]

I'm updating y'all on the results I had from shielding my bass. I used basic copper tape sourced from Allparts. It was my first time and tedious at first. I have no idea how my work stacks up but I try to do neat work. By that I mean I tried to get it solid and to look pretty good. My next one might be a little quicker but I doubt much neater. It's tedious...

The whole point was to kill noise/hum/60hz/whatever...

The result...?

It worked way better than I had hoped.

I mean it was THE ANSWER to my problem that was annoying the h@ll out of me. I've simply become a snotty goody-too-shoes over the years and demand top-notch audiophile-ness

Now, on my amps, I have to turn everything almost wide open (gain, volume, eq) to hear ANY noise. And even then it's probably 99.9% from the amps.

If you have the iron & solder you can do this job for under $20 plus about 3-4 hours of your time (1st time). If I did one tomorrow maybe 2 on a Pbass.

Worth it for me.

[paulo]

Nicely done!
BTW I've found a place nearby that sells a roll of copper tape about the same size of a roll of duct tape, for about $15.
http://www.youdoitelectronics.com
Look at the middle of this page:
http://www.youdoitelectronics.com/SparkFun/

[NoXX]

Nice one! Glad it worked out. I've found the eraser end of a pencil to be ideal for poking and smoothing out small bumps and wiggles in the tape at the bottom of a cavity without tearing or creasing it. As you mentioned, it's tedious, but beer helps!

[KingOfAmps]

Nicely done!
BTW I've found a place nearby that sells a roll of copper tape about the same size of a roll of duct tape, for about $15.

Thanks.

If that roll is what it looks like/described as then that's a great buy.

I purchased mine from my old-time, still standing Mom & Pop music shop (RockBlock Guitars Nashville). I measured what I got in the packs I bought from them (repackaged by Allparts) and did the math and it worked out to about $1/ft. There was 6' in each package for $6 though I got two for $10. YMMV.

I did the usual research and investigated the most popular offerings (ex. StewMac). Having done it I can now say there's no wrong place to source it. It's worth $25 any day of the week so anything less than that is no-brainer.

That big roll for $15 is good buy for sure. Do all your basses!

I'd buy the StewMac kit too. Or their roll. Their kit includes a super skinny strip that may not be useful which was one reason I didn't get it. But on a different bass it might be exactly what's called for.

The kit NoXX linked would suit too.

I'll add this: from my research I noticed a LOT of internet "concern posting" over whether or not the *adhesive* is conductive. Apparently some is and some isn't. Mine was/is. So while I would definitely want the copper to have adhesive I would not worry if it's conductive because either way as I would solder the seams anyway as seen in my pic. I think doing so nearly eliminates any concern over the years to come of an issue. Maybe a little OCD but adhesive could break down over time and the contact could suffer?

It's the kind of job you won't be in the mood to do twice on the same bass if you know what I mean...

[KingOfAmps]

Nice one! Glad it worked out. I've found the eraser end of a pencil to be ideal for poking and smoothing out small bumps and wiggles in the tape at the bottom of a cavity without tearing or creasing it. As you mentioned, it's tedious, but beer helps!

NoXX, did you NSA my webcam or something!?!

I used that technique a lot.

And it was usually some kind of Redwine from up your way. Need to remain docile for this one!

[NoXX]

Nice one! Glad it worked out. I've found the eraser end of a pencil to be ideal for poking and smoothing out small bumps and wiggles in the tape at the bottom of a cavity without tearing or creasing it. As you mentioned, it's tedious, but beer helps!

NoXX, did you NSA my webcam or something!?!

I used that technique a lot.

And it was usually some kind of Redwine from up your way. Need to remain docile for this one!

[superheavydeathmetal]

Are you a tech? If I were to take an instrument to a shop to have it shielded and it was returned to me looking like that, I would be most pleased, indeed. That is some professional-looking work.

[fivebass52]

Are you a tech? If I were to take an instrument to a shop to have it shielded and it was returned to me looking like that, I would be most pleased, indeed. That is some professional-looking work.

+1.... thought the same thing - well done!

[KingOfAmps]

Thanks for the compliments fellas!

Not a tech. I did look at a lot of pictures of others work. Watched vids. Read. Thought it thru.

I'd say to anyone considering the job (and I definitely recommend to anyone wrestling with a noise issue) to focus on these things:

1. Figure it may take 6 hours and consider breaking the job into two parts with part one being disassembly and prepping/cutting the copper. Basically everything up to sticking on the copper. Part two would involve installing the copper and reassembly.

2. Make sure you have everything before you start. (Copper, solder, iron with good tips, scissors, marker, ruler, etc.) once you get into the groove/flow of this job you will be frustrated if you're forced to stop because you are missing a tool or supply. Don't ask!

3. Make templates. Use construction paper to make templates for the largest areas like the bottoms of the routes. Make them perfectly fit. That part is like 1/3 of the copper part of the job and if you make the templates that part will zoom by. Plus it will prevent wasting copper. Working with a kit or limited supply of copper, you can't bungle too many large pieces before you have to worry about running out. Templates for the sides is largely impractical IME.

4. Mentally prepare yourself for the sides part. This is the part that takes patience and finesse. This is the part of the job when/where you understand why the manufacturers don't do this: It'd eat up all the profit! It'll take some time getting a feel for how to "work" the copper around the cavity side-walls and simultaneously lap it over the top. That requires making short slits in the copper's top and bottom edges (approx. 1/16") wherever there's a corner or curve in the cavity. One last time: Only start this part of the job (#4) when you're fresh, in a good mood, sober, ALONE and have a good 2 hours to devote.

[superheavydeathmetal]

I am considering tackling this job for one of mine. I must admit, I am a bit intimidated!

How easy is the tape to cut? Can I use some kitchen scissors or do I need a serious blade?

Is this worth the effort for passive or even active humbuckers?

[blablas]

Kitchen scissors will do the job without any problems.
Shielding is always better than none, even for humbuckers it's worth the effort.

[superheavydeathmetal]

Shielding is always better than none, even for humbuckers it's worth the effort.

Well, yeah, easy for you to say! We have all seen your work. You could probably build a bass with your eyes closed! Haha!

But, I shall take your advice nonetheless! I will take a stab at it. I am off to order some copper tape!

Thanks, blab!

[screambasses]

Shielding is always better than none, even for humbuckers it's worth the effort.

Well, yeah, easy for you to say! We have all seen your work. You could probably build a bass with your eyes closed! Haha!

But, I shall take your advice nonetheless! I will take a stab at it. I am off to order some copper tape!

Thanks, blab!

Along with copper tape, I also use the conductive shielding paint and that has worked well, too.

pete

[fivebass52]

Along with copper tape, I also use the conductive shielding paint and that has worked well, too.

pete

Pete, do you paint the cavity first, then put in the copper shielding?

[screambasses]

Along with copper tape, I also use the conductive shielding paint and that has worked well, too.

pete

Pete, do you paint the cavity first, then put in the copper shielding?

Yes, I do. I'm a Virgo.

pete

[superheavydeathmetal]

I got my shielding done!



Not a bad job, I must say! I really dodged a bullet in that the cavity was already shielded. I was dreading that, so I was pretty happy when I saw that it wasn't necessary.

I'd like to throw a big shout-out to paulo for sending me some free copper tape (he even covered shipping!) to do this. You are a credit to the forum, man!

Also, thanks to blablas for the encouragement, and for KingOfAmps for starting the thread that got me down this path.