LeftyBassist.com

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-Rickenback ... 2a2b117557

Is it my imagination or does the bridge have that lifting problem at the back end?

Tail of the bridge is definitely lifting. IME this happens eventually on all of those bridges if you use any gauge of roundwounds heavier than extra light. Happened on two of them that I owned.

Easy fix though. If you're a collector and you plan on hanging it on the wall in a glass case, buy a new bridge from Rick and put some light strings on. If you actually - GASP - want to play the $4000 bass you just bought then the best thing you can do is buy a new bridge from Rick - for when you sell it down the road - and buy a replacement bridge from Hipshot now, so you can actually play it in tune all the way up the neck with whatever strings you like. No tail lifting on those babies.

Sweet bass though. I love those V63 bodies without the binding. So Paul.

This seller is a good seller, check out his other items in Ebay, he also has a Lefty Music Man (EB). What kills me is that the original owner decided to put indents in the next near the position markers. If you scroll down and view the photo's you can see them very well. Hard to believe someone could do this to a bass, I have never seen that before.

Well it's good to know that they even put the nameplates on crooked back then.



Anyway, man... those strings are like a mile off that fingerboard. Total cause for concern there.

And that bridge lift thing freaks me out. Some guys string their Ricks up with D'Addario chromes and never have an issue and other guys use ultra loosey-goosey TI Jazz rounds and get bridge lift really bad.

From what I've gathered reading dozens of pages on various forums, the bridge lift problem is not nearly as common these days as it used to be... my understanding is that they changed the alloy for the cheap casting process that they use and it's now more rigid. I think they might have added more screws now too? Can't remember.

Anyway, you would think that Rick would have taken much more aggressive steps to rectify that issue... It seems like they hardly ever cared that it was happening.

I mean... how embarrassing.

Addidson,
remember that you're dealing with John Hall

I have an identical minty FG V63 and suffer from a touch of bridge lift, but so far it's not causing any issues. I sleep comfortably now knowing that the value of that bass has quadrupled in the last 12 years.

Wow, that is one of the most comprehensive "photo essays" I've seen!

Definitely some bridge lift going on there, but what a beautiful bass. Too bad about the price though.

If he gets THAT much for it, I'll be selling my MG v63 for sure. Before the bridge starts lifting any more.

He just sold a rightly MG v63 for under $2300.

I know FG can be more desirable, but that's quite a lefty premium he asking.

Not sure to understand this bridge lifting issue, but does this one has the same problem?

It's impossible to tell with that picture... there could be, but that shadow might be creating an illusion that it's much worse than it is.

From what I gather, genuine "bridge lift" would be if there's any more than a credit card's width between the body of the bass and the bottom of the bridge, towards the back where the strings are inserted.

Having a slight space is normal (width of a business card or so... a little more, a little less), since there are slight variances in the bridge shape due to the casting process, and slight variances in the body due to sanding.

The real cause for concern is when this gap grows over a period of years. I've seen pictures where it gets really bad... this eBay auction is a good example.

Ricks come from the factory with really light strings... a lot of problems can occur if you decide to go too heavy on your string gauge.

No tail-lift on my '80 4003, they shoulda stayed with that bridge design.